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Cabin Creek
Timber Frames .. Project Planning Guide for Building Your
Timber Frame Home
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If you are anything like me you have dreamed
about building your own timber frame home for years.
Dreaming about it is the easy part. Planning it IS work.
Fortunately the more research and planning you do ahead
of time the easier it will be for you in the long run.
The only regret I have about my now completed timber
frame home is that we didn't build it sooner.
I
have gathered some pertinent questions it will be
necessary to ask & answer before you can
realistically start your planning process.
Do I know where I want to build my timber frame
home?
- What is your land BUDGET _______________? Be
realistic.
- What qualities does the property have that may
affect your choice of a timber frame plan? How does
the land lie?
- Are there features you wish to emphasize such
as a stream ,lake site, waterfalls, distant
views, a place for a sunny garden, unusual
plants, specimen trees, boulder or rock
formations, etc.?
- Is the land FLAT?
- Is the land SLOPING?
- Is the land STEEP? These questions will help
you consider where to place the entrance of your
timber frame home. You do not have to always
have the entrance on the ground floor
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- What if any views do you have that you want
to make use of?
This question is not always
as easy to answer as you might think. When planning
our timber frame home we had only assessed the
property in the spring and summer; when fall came we
had a view of the mountains I could not pass up. So
if possible you should consider your property
seasonally. The leaves are not always on the trees.
This should also be taken into consideration when
assessing how much natural light a room will
receive.
- How much does Mother Nature love you?
- Will your home be subject to heavy snow
loads?
- How much rain will you get? Will you have to
have an erosion plan? Will extra money have to
be spent dealing with the run off?
- Snow-belt, Sun-belt, will temperature
extremes be involved? Are the R-values of the
SIP's going to change from the norm?
- Let deciduous trees shade your home in
summer, decreasing heat gain in summer. They
will allow sunlight in to warm the house in
winter.
- A two foot overhang will help protect the
sides of your timber frame home and decrease
heat gain in summer, and it will let sunlight in
from a lower winter sun in the cold months.
- No man is an island at least not where
most building departments and utilities companies
are concerned. Some things to keep in mind are:
- How will you get electricity to your
building site? Is there electric service nearby
that you will able use? Are you miles away from
the nearest power pole? Are you going to have to
pay to run power to your site? Are you going to
go solar or have your own generator?
- · Will the property pass a perc test? A
perc test indicates the soils ability to absorb
liquid over a specified period of time. How long
it takes the soil to absorb liquids will be a
deciding factor in how large and what type
septic system you will be required to have. If
it does not pass a perc test you may not be
permitted to build on the land.
- Is there a hook up to local sewer system
available?
- Is there a source of potable water? Is there
a hook up to the local water system available?
In rural areas, obtaining potable water usually
means drilling a well. You may want to find out
how deep and how much well costs usually run in
your area.
- How will your building site be accessed? Does
it already have a driveway with plenty of
parking for construction? With a timber frame
you will need at least room for a crane and an
area from which to stage the timber frame
materials? Is the area ABOVE where the crane
will be working free of overhanging branches,
power lines, etc.? I have yet to meet a crane
operator that trims trees for free.
- How far away from a fire department is the
property? This question is posed for you to
consider the after construction insurance costs
more than any thing else.
- Does any one in the household have need to be
near to a hospital, dialysis center, etc?
Do you know what style timber frame home you want?
Post and beam, mortise and tenon, post and plate,
are to be considered. Not all cost the same thing to
construct, nor does it cost the same thing to erect a
unique post and plate house as it does a bent type home.
Our
timber frame office complex is post and plate timber
frame construction of eastern white pine. Our model
home's great room is a fine example of compound joinery
and is cut of eastern white pine. The remainder of our
timber frame model home is mortise and tenon bent type
construction and is cut of hemlock from Maine. Our
timber frame structures are joined by oak or locust pegs
unless a structural engineer specifically calls for
metal to be employed in the joining of materials.
Do you know what species of wood you want? The
majority of our timber frames are cut of eastern white
pine. Eastern White Pine is readily available in our
area, and we believe it is more stable than other woods
(i.e. it splits, warps, and twists less than other
varieties).
We have cut timber frames of
Douglas fir, cypress, white oak, southern yellow pine,
and hemlock. We generally use green timbers which have
higher water content and are more easily sculpted. We
can, however, have the timbers dried prior to cutting.
This does add considerable expense and does not prevent
the natural cracking or checking of the wood as it
dries. It should be noted that the natural cracking or
checking of the wood as it dries does not affect the
structural integrity of the timber frame structure.
Eastern White Pine is readily available
locally it varies in color from white to cream when it
is freshly cut, turning to a golden honey color in a few
years. It checks less and is more stable than most other
woods.
Hemlock which we obtain from Maine and
Massachusetts is also white to light cream in color when
it is freshly cut turns to a light coffee with cream
color after a few years. Hemlock is said to have insect
repellant qualities. Hemlock checks and turns more than
Eastern white pine as it dries.
It is our
standard to use cherry or walnut splines to strengthen
the some of the joints in our timber frames. We have at
the customers request used splines of oak and southern
yellow pine.
What are your timber frame design needs?You
have to decide what your families needs are, present and
future. You want a floor plan that your family will be
able to enjoy and support your activities throughout the
years and still remain functional.
Designing
by Wrote. Writing things down is an excellent
organizational tool. If you are a couple we suggest you
start with two separate lists and then merge them into
one. Whether you design the house your self or turn it
over to an architect or designer you will need to fill
out the lists. Really, they work.
The first
list should be that or what is required by code,
covenant or development in order to get your building
approved. I am going to title this list GOT TO HAVE IT
LIST. I will give you some examples of what should be on
the 'Got to Have it List'. Each persons 'Got to have it
list' will be unique to them and their own timber frame.
"Got To Have It List"The minimum or
maximum sq footage your development allows should go
here.
Code issues such as septic systems, set
backs, maximum height of the building, earth disturbance
guidelines, how far back your timber frame has to be
from the creek or stream, etc, should be on the list.
Click
Here to view and print this form in pdf/Acrobat format
Now
you are ready for the 'Way We Were List'. In the past I
have suggested to our clients for years is to get out a
new piece of paper and write down on one side of the
paper things you have loved or enjoyed about all the
places you have lived in or visited throughout the
years. I have recently broadened the list to include
things you dislike about your past homes-so you don't
repeat your mistakes.
It will then be easier
to see what you really want in your new home and make
wise choices. Do you really need a formal living room if
you never used the one in your present home? We did this
in our new timber frame home and people are always
surprised that we don't have a TV in the great room. We
do however have an area in the room where people can
gather round and make music.
Click
Here to view and print this form in pdf/Acrobat format
I
have titled the 'If we could list' aka 'REACH FOR THE
SKY'.
This is where the list on wish you write
down your wants, not your needs. If they are written
down you may be able to incorporate them into your final
design. But if no one knows about them, how are they are
going to get the attention they deserve?
When
Joe and I married we had a LOT of books. Surprisingly a
lot were duplicates and they were given to 'the Friends
of the Library' here in Franklin. The Friends of the
Library then sold them to buy different new things for
the Macon County Library. One way the architect
suggested handling our books was using them to line a
few of the walls of out timber frame. That idea was
finally incorporated into lining sections of the walls
of our loft; the adjacent area serves as a functional
seating area for reading, and over flow party area.
Click
Here to view and print this form in pdf/Acrobat format
Next
you need to find out how your present house is working
for you now. In other words are the rooms too big, too
little, not used, etc. You will need to write down the
rooms in your house along with their measurements, and
then write comments about them - out from them. Sounds
simple and it is. What is more important is that it
works.
Click
Here to view and print this form in pdf/Acrobat format
Now we put all the completed lists together:
REACH for the SKY
- Library Space for all of our books
- Kitchen large enough for two people to work
in at one time.
- Two sinks in the kitchen.
- Lots of CLEAR counter space in kitchen.
- Pantry for all of our serving pieces and
stock household goods.
- Main part of the house on the ground floor.
- Multiple ways to access the ground floor.
- One of the ground floor entry ways should be
a set of double doors to move stuff in and out
easily.
- Separate sink areas in the master bath for
his and her own areas.
- Place to make music and have friends over.
- One of entry doors should spill out to creek
side patios area; have easy access to kitchen
area.
- Easy access to mud room/laundry, kitchen from
outside of the house.
- Large but not HUGE master suite.
- Lot should be flat.
- Lot should have stream or running water.
- Lot should be with in 20 minutes of hospital.
- Stainless steel kitchen appliances.
- Good view.
- _____
- _____
- _____
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What
is below is a rule of thumb room by room guideline
suggestion for homes. They are not set in stone. Your
local building department probably has their own set of
guidelines that they go by. These are a place to start.
Your own county building department will be your best
source of information.
Kitchens
* Place them near the dining
room; you should not have to go through another room to
get to the dining room from the kitchen.
* Place
near a service door to the outside of the house - for
less hassle of bringing in groceries.
* Use a
durable, weather resistant floor that goes all the way
to the outside door.
* Position the big "3"
the sink, range and refrigerator so they fall with in a
12' - 22' work triangle. The rule of thumb is there
should be at least 4' but no more that 9' between each
arm of this triangle.
*Dishwasher and refrigerator
doors should not be placed where they would open into
any entry into your kitchen.
* Dishwashers should
always be placed near the sink.
Typical appliance sizes are:
- Standard, single door refrigerators - 32" -
34" wide, allow 36" of space.
- Double door refrigerators take up more space.
Check the actual size recommendations in the manual.
- Dishwashers - 24" wide.
- Range/Oven 30" wide. * Newer professional
grade range/ovens can be 48". Check with your
product manufacturer.
- Standard double sinks - 32" wide.
Typical sizes of cabinets and countertops: Base
cabinets (including tops) are 36" tall and 25"
deep.
Upper cabinets - 12" deep, placed 15 to
18" above the base cabinets.
There should be
at least 24" of counter top on one side of the sink
and 18" on the other. This not absolute, but I
would not recommend using any less.
There should be
at least 15" of countertop on the latch side of the
refrigerator. Once again this is not an absolute but a
strong recommendation.
There should be at least 15"
on one side of the cook top and at least 9" on the
other. Once again this is a strong recommendation.
Kitchens are expensive to refit.
The Shape of Kitchens"U" is the most
efficient.
"L" works well for an eat-in
kitchen.
Galley or corridor works well in smaller
house and apartments.
General kitchen spacing:
You need at least 36" of space between
cabinets/appliances and other cabinets/appliances or
islands; 42"-48" Separation is strongly
recommended though. This becomes a crucial measurement
when trying to incorporate an island. They take a lot of
room and shouldn't be squeezed in.
Dining RoomsI have heard of two ways to size a
dining room properly:
| 1. |
Allow 42" from the edge of the table to
the wall so there is ample room. An example: a 3' x
5' table needs 10' x 12' space. |
| 2. |
Allow 30 square feet per person. An example: 6
people x 30' = 180 square feet or a room 12' x 15'. |
Family Rooms
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Near the kitchen, often open to the kitchen. |
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Usually in the rear of the house, allows more
privacy, usually not visualized from the front door. |
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A small sized family room is around 12' x 16',
average size is around 14'x 18. |
Living Rooms
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Usually located in the front of the house,
often opposite the dining room. |
| · |
Typically has at least one long wall for
placing sofa and for hanging formal pictures. |
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Minimum size is 12' x 16'; average size is 12'
-14'wide by 16' - 18' long. |
Foyers or Entry Areas6' x 6' minimum, 6' x 8'
or larger is better.
It is nice to create the
illusion of a separate space by employing a "wing
wall" or a different type or style of flooring.
BedroomsPlan for a least one long wall against
which to place the head of the bed. Interior walls have
long been used to place the head of the bed (for
warmth), SIP's panels have negated that somewhat.
Closets have been traditionally placed towards other
rooms (to help with noise reduction) or on an outside
wall (to help with insulation). However, timber frames
are usually enclosed with SIP's making this less
necessary; since they provide a tight insulation
envelope for your home.
Closets
| · |
Closets are typically 25" deep. Your
drywall person is able to split a 4' wide section
and handle with a minimum amount of fuss. |
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Bedroom closets usually range from 4' to 8'
wide. |
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Walk in closets provide more free space than do
wall closets. Walk in closets are usually "U"
or "L' shaped. |
| · |
The newer type closet 'systems' provide much
better functional use of closet space. |
HallwaysHallways are always at least 3' wide;
4' is nicer.
Book shelves can easily be placed
on one or both sides of hallways. This allows for not
only functional use of the hallway but also give
collectors much needed display space. Keep in mind the
hall will have to be made wider if this is to be
employed.
BathsSmallest three fixture bath is 5' X 8'.
Smallest two fixture bath is either 3' x 7' or 5' x
6'.
Minimum suggested door size is 32", though
as small as 24" can be seen. While we don't plan to
get old, nor break a leg it happens and wheel chairs
only come so small….does your bottom?
Standard
sized tubs are 60" x 32" wide; 6' tall with
shower surround.
Standard showers are 36"
x 36" or 48" x 36", 6' tall; minimum
sized shower is 32" x 32" (but you had better
be really small to consider this one).
Standard
toilet sizes are typically 28" deep by 20"
wide and need 24" in clearance in front of and 12"
on each side.
Bathroom vanities are
usually 31" tall by 18"-22" deep (this
includes countertop). A double bowl vanity should be a
minimum of 5' wide, single bowl vanities should be at
least 18" wide, though 2' is a more realistic
minimum. Sinks need at 30" clearance in front of
them.
Bathroom plumbing is most cost efficient
when placed back to back and stacked floor-to-floor to
other bathrooms in the house.
SUNThe sun rises in the EAST and sets in the
WEST.
EAST is warm and bright. West is hot and
dark.
Typically speaking, rooms that
appreciate the morning sun, as kitchens and your bedroom
(if you are an early riser, or don't normally work the
night shift) should face East. Rooms like the kitchen
that we don't traditionally want to get too hot should
face the East.
The North side of the house is
always going to be colder than the other sides. This is
also true of the mountains; the North sides of mountains
retain their snow longer than the Southern exposed
mountain sides.
SpansTry not to span more than 32'. Timbers
longer than 32' are difficult to find, and any thing
that is unusual or difficult to find is more expensive
as a rule. See new design guideline sheet.
Roof lines and RoofsGenerally speaking the
steeper the roofs pitch (the degree of slope to your
roof) the better the house looks. Roof pitches that look
good are 6/12, 9/12 or 12/12. 12/12 roofs are very hard
to work on but have the advantage of giving you more
square footage under them, if you want it. If you prefer
a less steeply pitched roof we can always make the knee
wall deeper to give you more room in your second story
or loft area.
If your house has multiple roof
lines try to keep them at the same pitch.
When
considering your roofing materials keep in mind what
looks best (shakes or metal) also costs more. Labor
costs to have a metal roof or shakes is also higher.
Not all shingles or metal roofing materials
are certified for direct application to SIPs. Most
building departments require that you have written
documentation from the manufacture as to what standards
they have met, etc. Cost should not be used as an
indicator that the shingles or metal roofing meet these
higher standards. Shingles not certified for direct
application to SIPs have been known bubble or wave up.
StairsI personally like stairs that are four
feet wide rather than three; if a person needs help,
it's easier to walk beside them than behind them.
Your
local building department will your best bet on stairs
regarding what is permitted and what is not.
Structural EngineeringCheck with your county's
building department, they will be able to tell you if
the plans for your timber frame will need to be stamped
by a structural engineer or not. We have found that
areas that utilize the 2003 Universal Building Code
require your plans to be stamped. It is always best to
check with the building dept.
BOOKSThere are many books out there on how to
plan your house. One I always suggest is The Not So Big
House by Sarah Suzanka, it should be available at most
local libraries as it has been out for many years. Many
more suggested readings are to be found on this web site
under the associations & links sections, under
Suggested Readings.
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